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Steve Justice

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1 hour ago, Tommy! said:

If I wanted to now up the spec to play some newer stuff how much effort is it to switch out the parts, specifically ram & graphics cards? Guides I've read suggest it's a simple job and is just plug & play or screwdriver only, is that correct or am I going to need to get my soldering iron out? 

As the others have said, very easy. Only one that really needs extra care is a processor change as you need to be pinpoint with that as not to damage any pins. Also, be sure any future processor is suitable for the socket on your motherboard.

What set-up did you plump for? Did my first proper build from scratch back in February, it is the absolute bollocks. Spoilered to avoid a massive post for folk.

Spoiler

ASUS ROG Strix x570-F Motherboard
Ryzen 9 5900X CPU
Did have RTX 3070 but then found the RTX 3080Ti (staggeringly at RRP so got very lucky there)
32GB Corsair Vengeance 3600Mhz RAM (2x16GB but adding another 2 sticks after new year)
500GB Samsung 980 Pro M.2 drive as my boot drive/main programs
1TB Samsung 980 Pro M.2 for my main games and for recording storage (7000MB/R, 5000MB/W - Those drives are monsters)
4TB Seagate Barracuda HDD for any other storage and as an archive for past Premiere/Photoshop/Cinema 4D projects
Corsair 1000w RMx power supply (absolute overkill for what it is right now, but means I'll never really have to worry about replacing or running close to the limit with it)
Corsair H115i Pro XT cooler
All in a rather large Fractal Define 7 case, went for the blacked out version as not a fan of all the RGB stuff. Absolutely silent machine.

 

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Got a question as regards laptop batteries; any help would be really appreciated.

I got a new laptop three years ago - deliberately chose a gaming laptop so it would be future-proof (more or less) for work, and also so I could play good games on it. It's pretty big, 17" screen (not including frame), and quite heavy.

The battery expired a year ago, and I just couldn't be arsed to replace it, so I've just kept it connected to my charger. I've been advised that this is not a good thing, so I've been trying to find a replacement battery, and don't seem to be able to find one to match mine.

How exact does the match have to be? Mine's an HP Omen 17-an0xx - I've been looking on Battery Depot's website, and they have literally hundreds of Omen 17-an*** battery models, but none of them have that exact number.

Is there anything specific I need to look out for, if not the model number?

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2 minutes ago, Carbomb said:

Got a question as regards laptop batteries; any help would be really appreciated.

I got a new laptop three years ago - deliberately chose a gaming laptop so it would be future-proof (more or less) for work, and also so I could play good games on it. It's pretty big, 17" screen (not including frame), and quite heavy.

The battery expired a year ago, and I just couldn't be arsed to replace it, so I've just kept it connected to my charger. I've been advised that this is not a good thing, so I've been trying to find a replacement battery, and don't seem to be able to find one to match mine.

How exact does the match have to be? Mine's an HP Omen 17-an0xx - I've been looking on Battery Depot's website, and they have literally hundreds of Omen 17-an*** battery models, but none of them have that exact number.

Is there anything specific I need to look out for, if not the model number?

Dumb question, have you tried taking out the battery? 

I had a lenovo for work which I used to do the same with, but I could unplug the battery and just use the charger to use the laptop without having the battery constantly on charge.

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@Carbomb

Electrically you need to be vigilant of the voltage and current delivery. The physical form factor of the battery is also going to be important.. You'll want it to fit. How easy is it to actually remove the existing battery? If you can get the battery out. You should be able to find all the necessary information required to order a replacement on the battery itself. Such as manufacturer name, model number. As well as other technical details.

With it being a gaming laptop. It may have been built to allow easy replacement of parts such as batteries and graphics cards.

Edited by BigJag
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Thanks for this, guys.

@Hannibal Scorch - no, not taken out the battery - I figured the "About This Computer" section would've been enough. But maybe I should check.

@BigJag I figured the physical form would be important, but I wanted to make sure that, if I got, say, a model that was only a couple of digits out, it wouldn't be a completely different shape or size.

The battery isn't the easiest to remove, but nothing I can't take out without a screwdriver.

EDIT: Bloody hell, I'm really out-of-contexting myself here.

Edited by Carbomb
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Just now, FailedPromoter said:

https://www.battdepot.com/uk/opn/notebook+battery/hp/922977-855/lhp371.aspx

HP don't make actual replacements for them, but this is the correct one for your model. 

Ah, thank you! May I ask how you knew? Was I looking at the wrong numbers?

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3 minutes ago, FailedPromoter said:

The spare part number for a lot of the Omen batteries is 922977-855. Had a quick google and found a staff member on HP's forum confirm this. Then cross checked it with UK BattDepot.

Brilliant, thanks muchly for this.

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Spilled water on my ancient (but still working perfectly) asus win 8.1 laptop and whole lefthand side of the keyboard is fecked. I bought a cheap bluetooth board & mouse that work grand, but I can't disable the actual keyboard on laptop itself. which is annoying as I'd like to just lie new board on top of it without it mashing the buttons that are still in service. When I look in device manager to uninstall it, its not listed at all.  Tried updating drivers etc, but still no joy.

I only use this laptop for torrenting & old saves of FM 07 (which apparently doesn't work/fiddly on newer windows versions) so not arsed replacing the damaged board, just want rid of its functions!

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47 minutes ago, DCW said:

Spilled water on my ancient (but still working perfectly) asus win 8.1 laptop and whole lefthand side of the keyboard is fecked. I bought a cheap bluetooth board & mouse that work grand, but I can't disable the actual keyboard on laptop itself. which is annoying as I'd like to just lie new board on top of it without it mashing the buttons that are still in service. When I look in device manager to uninstall it, its not listed at all.  Tried updating drivers etc, but still no joy.

I only use this laptop for torrenting & old saves of FM 07 (which apparently doesn't work/fiddly on newer windows versions) so not arsed replacing the damaged board, just want rid of its functions!

Installing a third party device manager should show the keyboard and thus allow you to disable it. Sometimes on 8.1 the default device manager can be a bit of a pain. Not sure if it's still going but DevManView was one I used to use on my 8.1 to take control and sort drivers out for my devices.

Edit: Infact, looks like it still is going here.

Edited by FailedPromoter
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Does anyone have any experience using SharePoint on iOS? I have to change my work password every 3 months, normally this doesn’t cause an issue as I just log out of SharePoint and then back in again and it’s as normal. This time after logging back in, every time I come away from the app, be it closing the app or just browsing another app, when I return to it I’ve been logged out. There’s no settings or options within the app to stay logged in and the box to do so is unchecked within the phone settings. 
I need to access it several times a day and it’s become such a faff as not only does it log me out but it doesn’t remember my log in details and I have to use a secondary verification every time. 

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On 1/5/2022 at 8:45 PM, DCW said:

I only use this laptop for torrenting & old saves of FM 07 (which apparently doesn't work/fiddly on newer windows versions) so not arsed replacing the damaged board, just want rid of its functions!

Had the same problem with FM08 on Windows 10. I got it working again by running it in comparability mode. I think I set it to Windows Vista.

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Can someone recommend me a cheapish/freeish/actually free video editor?

I was using Serif MoviePlus X5 but its been abandoned by the developer and doesn't recognise .MOV files. I can usually get round this by converting them to .WMV or something, but now that I've got to edit something together from 140+ .MOV clips, I really can't be arsed with the back and forth.

I don't need anything super fancy, but being able to overlay one clip over another with varying levels of opacity would be nice. 

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