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DIY for knuckleheads


Bus Surfer

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27 minutes ago, hallicks said:

Thanks so much, definitely a good starting point. We're renting so probably won't be drilling anything but our landlords are quite good so they might be up for it. 

No probs. 

As a starting point then I’d say 100% use mold & mildew spray, let it soak in for 1 hour, scrub the grot off, spray it on again, repeat, then let air for 24 hours. Make sure it’s dry. Then apply the waterproof paint, followed by normal paint. Obviously with lard lords permission and just check on it for the month. 

We’re having a mare with our daughters bedroom windows at present. They are old and shit. The condensation is insane. Full big puddles of water on her windowsill daily. Have to bosh through the winter and replace the bloody things in the spring. 

Word to anyone aiming to buy a house... Old houses are lovely and full of charm, they’re also a big fucking money pit and nothing is ever finished.

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Thanks for the advice @Kaz Hayashi

I'm planning on using it as a gym area and workshop space, but want to try and put something more finished in than the current brickwork and neon tube that's there at the moment for a nicer look and to keep heat in if I'm in there in winter. As it is a single brick wall it's new to me as everything else has a cavity and DPC already to work with. 

It needs a lot of work I fear. 

Edited by Tommy!
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  • 5 months later...

We need to put some kind of bolt/deadbolt on our front door, since our two year old has worked out how to take the chain off and take the lock off the latch. It's set against a lifted frame (like a small skirting board, I'm sure it has a technical name), so a conventional bolt won't do, the latching section would have to be lifted to fit on/around the frame. Does this have a technical name? None of my amazon searches seem to understand what I mean. Understandably.

 

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1 hour ago, hallicks said:

We need to put some kind of bolt/deadbolt on our front door, since our two year old has worked out how to take the chain off and take the lock off the latch. It's set against a lifted frame (like a small skirting board, I'm sure it has a technical name), so a conventional bolt won't do, the latching section would have to be lifted to fit on/around the frame. Does this have a technical name? None of my amazon searches seem to understand what I mean. Understandably.

 

I'm reading that as the door /. door frame / surround don't all sit completely flush to one and other ? If so the i think the thing you are after is called a necked tower bolt.

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The school I work at are having sports day on Tuesday and we are wanting to make it into more of a big deal so are having a special medal presentation on Wednesday morning. I've volunteered myself to build a medal podium for the school for it. 

Already got it planned out and am gonna buy the wood from B and Q on Sunday and then spend the day building it. 

Pictures and updates to follow. 

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  • 10 months later...
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Hello chaps, I'm doing a small metal work project and wondered how I can tell it's time to change a cutting disc?

As I've zero experience I'm a little cautious of potential injury at every stage.

N.B. expect welding questions in about a month.

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I'm not a big metalworker but, with all cutting/grinding tools I've ever used on other materials, they've stopped cutting/grinding so well. I appreciate it happens over time so it's hard to notice an actual change but at some point it normally becomes obvious. Worst case scenario if you're not sure, change it and see if it cuts better. If not, you've got a spare.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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I said I'd be back with a welding question. I'm planning on using a gasless mig to join some 25mm tube with a 1.5mm wall. However I'm working inside my garage. Before I start how far are sparks likely to go? I'll always be over cautious anyway but don't want to move a ton of stuff off the top shelves which is really well out of reach. 

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8 hours ago, Tommy! said:

I said I'd be back with a welding question. I'm planning on using a gasless mig to join some 25mm tube with a 1.5mm wall. However I'm working inside my garage. Before I start how far are sparks likely to go? I'll always be over cautious anyway but don't want to move a ton of stuff off the top shelves which is really well out of reach. 

6ft is a good rule of thumb. Please do Keep anything even potentially combustible out of range. Have you had any training on the use of a welding rig? They aren't really DIY tools.

Safety first!

 

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2 hours ago, BigJag said:

6ft is a good rule of thumb. Please do Keep anything even potentially combustible out of range. Have you had any training on the use of a welding rig? They aren't really DIY tools.

Safety first!

Thank you. I've never had any training which is why I'm so cautious. 

I know some theory basics and lots of stuff on staying safe I've picked up from my da but I don't want to take any chances on bits I can't remember.

 

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Double post apologies, but just wanted to say thanks to people for the help The first tier is done and, while it doesn't look pretty, it's held solid and there were no injuries or issues. I'd opted to minimise the amount of welding by using plastic connectors for most of the frame but I'm wondering if that was a mistake now. It took some trial and error to get the feed speed and power right but apart from that it seemed to go OK. 

Any who, two more like today to go and then it's on to basic plumbing so await stupid questions on ptfe tape and boss green :(

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