Stylin_and_Profilin Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Yep ignore my first post yer alternator is fine. Â Car fuses are cheap as chips mate just mind to get the right size but they are colour coded so you'll be able to get a big multi pack of varioud power ratings etc for a few quid. Not an expensive job at all. Â Let us know how you get on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiffingtonClyro Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 This is the UKFF at it's best. People going out their way to help folk. I'm welling up... Seriously though, it's a great trait on this forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldeneye86 Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Yep ignore my first post yer alternator is fine. Car fuses are cheap as chips mate just mind to get the right size but they are colour coded so you'll be able to get a big multi pack of varioud power ratings etc for a few quid. Not an expensive job at all.  Let us know how you get on.  Hi mate, right update.. swaped f4 with the same fuse voltage, now I've got the drivers window working (passangers side window makes a sound like it wants to come down but wont?) radio working, indicators working.  still no dials working (rev counter,fuel,temp etc) rest of dash working but now when engine running the battery light stays on?  made progress but any ideas where i got next?  many thanks in advance for getting to this stage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Justice Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Have you tried turning it off and turning it on again?  Plenty of times, tried for the last two days with a family friend to rectify the issue but can't figure it out lol  McWhoosh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stylin_and_Profilin Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Yep ignore my first post yer alternator is fine. Car fuses are cheap as chips mate just mind to get the right size but they are colour coded so you'll be able to get a big multi pack of varioud power ratings etc for a few quid. Not an expensive job at all.  Let us know how you get on.  Hi mate, right update.. swaped f4 with the same fuse voltage, now I've got the drivers window working (passangers side window makes a sound like it wants to come down but wont?) radio working, indicators working.  still no dials working (rev counter,fuel,temp etc) rest of dash working but now when engine running the battery light stays on?  made progress but any ideas where i got next?  many thanks in advance for getting to this stage  So all your internal electrics are now ok? Are you getting all the warning lights, etc on your dash board then thats excellent. I'm guessing it's the speedo, petrol gauge, rev counter that still aint working? If so then it looks like the ECU needs reset. Easiest way for that is to disconnect your battery terminals for a few hours then connect it back up. However i'm sure you said that already - no harm trying again though.  As for the electric window, from what you are saying then it sounds like it's trying to come down with the motor is still turning away which is good. It may have just came off it's runners which can happen. Open the door from inside on the passengers seat give it a good few shoogles open and shut whilst keeping your finger on the button for lowering the window to see if this will bump it back onto the runners. Don't be too afraid to give it a firm dunt but at the same time remember it's a french motor so they are made of paper machee  One thing i would say is it an electric window is going to die on you it's better to fail when it's shut and won't go do opposed to being down and unable to close as then you have a much bigger problem obviously with security, exposed to the weather, etc etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldeneye86 Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 Yep ignore my first post yer alternator is fine. Car fuses are cheap as chips mate just mind to get the right size but they are colour coded so you'll be able to get a big multi pack of varioud power ratings etc for a few quid. Not an expensive job at all.  Let us know how you get on.  Hi mate, right update.. swaped f4 with the same fuse voltage, now I've got the drivers window working (passangers side window makes a sound like it wants to come down but wont?) radio working, indicators working.  still no dials working (rev counter,fuel,temp etc) rest of dash working but now when engine running the battery light stays on?  made progress but any ideas where i got next?  many thanks in advance for getting to this stage  So all your internal electrics are now ok? Are you getting all the warning lights, etc on your dash board then thats excellent. I'm guessing it's the speedo, petrol gauge, rev counter that still aint working? If so then it looks like the ECU needs reset. Easiest way for that is to disconnect your battery terminals for a few hours then connect it back up. However i'm sure you said that already - no harm trying again though.  As for the electric window, from what you are saying then it sounds like it's trying to come down with the motor is still turning away which is good. It may have just came off it's runners which can happen. Open the door from inside on the passengers seat give it a good few shoogles open and shut whilst keeping your finger on the button for lowering the window to see if this will bump it back onto the runners. Don't be too afraid to give it a firm dunt but at the same time remember it's a french motor so they are made of paper machee  One thing i would say is it an electric window is going to die on you it's better to fail when it's shut and won't go do opposed to being down and unable to close as then you have a much bigger problem obviously with security, exposed to the weather, etc etc.  Hi bud, not got all electrics working no, so far haven't got working... heater, fuel gauge, temp gauge, rev counter. but got the rest working, the passenger window won't budge (tried the thing you said to do but no joy) however the passenger window not fussed about really. However when the engine is now running the red battery symbol is staying on ( pos and neg red battery led)?  do you think it could be a fan belt issue? or even a dodgy alternator? as it keeps making me thing it could be a alternator but not sure as done that test you said to do with the alternator but things seem fine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stylin_and_Profilin Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 All i would recommend then is the battery disconnect to reset ecu as mentioned previously and swapping out the fuses based on the diagram i posted earlier and the corresponding description of what they control. Â The battery light illuminating and not going off is a bit more worrying and points back to the alternator. The definitive way to check without going to a garage is to buy a electric multimeter which again is not too expensive. Â Â One of those ^^ Â With the engine switch off put the positve and negative probes on each side of the battery and you should get a reading of around 12.5v (ish) from a charged battery. Â Now switch the ignition on and leave idling for a minute or so. Now go back to the battery again and do exactly the same with the multimeter on each side of the battery to get a reading. This time it should be up between 13.5v - 14.5v to indicate the alternator is working and giving back charge to the battery. Â If it is below this then your alternator is most likely goosed i am afraid. If it's knackered then you can keep watching the voltage reading which will steadily drop down bit by bit as there is nothing working to recharge the drain on the battery. Â Has all this happened at once? It's a terrible coincidence or plain out bad luck for all these things to occur together. It could be a more deep rooted issue with the earthing or wiring like Kookachu said yesterday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldeneye86 Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Hi bud, going to try the following above you've mentioned and see where i go from there.  I got the car for a little do up project and to learn more about cars and how they work etc.  I knew it had problems but it's this main electric problem that's the pain lol, if i can get it in working order then it's a bonus but if not i'll scrap it as it didn't cost much much.  I have a great fiesta 2002 1.25 but the saxo aswell would be good to re-sell on if can.  will keep ya posted to let ya know how i get on  I just want to say a big thank you for all your help as i'm learning so much and getting somewhere (slowly but surely) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldeneye86 Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Hi bud, Just to say a big THANK YOU for all your help and knowledge. Â It's an alternator issue, Ordering a new alternator for it. Â Many thanks and Thanks to everyone for all their input/help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stylin_and_Profilin Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 No problem mate glad it's sorted. Â If you haven't already bought one don't necessarily by a brand new one as they are quite pricey. A lot of places sell reconditioned ones which will do the job nicely. Some will even give you a further discount for taking your faulty one in exchange as they'll refurb it and sell it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldeneye86 Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 No problem mate glad it's sorted. If you haven't already bought one don't necessarily by a brand new one as they are quite pricey. A lot of places sell reconditioned ones which will do the job nicely. Some will even give you a further discount for taking your faulty one in exchange as they'll refurb it and sell it on.  Brilliant info. mate your one of a kind! and I THANK YOU so much!! keep in touch and many thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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